How to Plant a Potted Tree
Prepare the site: Before doing any digging, plan out the location of each tree, keeping in mind the mature growth of the tree. Avoid crowding as this can increase the risk of pests and disease long term and lead to the tree’s early demise. Plant with proper spacing and do not plant tall-growing trees close to overhead utility lines.
Proper Transport: Protect your potted tree well during transport by tarping and strapping as required. Gently pad the trunk, branches, leaves, and needles with burlap or a mesh tarp to avoid unnecessary stress on the tree. Plant as soon as possible after delivery. If immediate planting is not possible, store the tree in a cool, shaded area and water as needed to keep the roots and soil moist. Avoid storing potted trees on hot concrete as this is more likely to dry out the roots and soil. Opt. to store potted trees laid down, on level soil or grass that is semi-shaded, before planting.
Plant your tree: Dig a hole, 5-10 inches wider than the container. The hole should only be as deep as the top of the root ball. When placed in the hole, the root collar (i.e., where the roots join the trunk) should be equal to or slightly above the depth of the hole. Do not backfill onto the trunk.
Remove the root ball from the container and roughen the sides and bottom of the root ball to further allow root infiltration. Pay close attention to the root systems when completing this step so as not to cause unnecessary damage to the roots. Plant the tree so the top of the root ball is flush with the top of the hole and the tree is vertical. Fill the hole in and around the root ball with the soil removed from the hole, or a 50/50 mix of the native soil and a nutrient-dense soil mix. Do not return any grass or sod to the hole.
Pack the soil around the root ball until the hole is two-thirds full to remove air pockets. Cover the remaining space and root ball with Wurzel Dip mixture to settle the soil then allow the hole to drain.
Finish packing soil into the hole and add any leftover root treatment. Finish filling the hole with soil and add 1-2 inches of mulch for better moisture retention. When mulching, leave several inches of distance from the root collar of the tree so the root flare can get adequate oxygen. If irrigation is unavailable, we recommend a water bag for your trees.
Staking: We recommend staking to protect against high winds or shallow soil. Remove or reposition stakes after one year. Potted trees require 3-4 stakes per tree.
How to Plant a Wire and Burlap Basketed Tree
Prepare the site: Before doing any digging, make sure to request underground utility locates to check for underground services on your property. Complete the service online Click Before you Dig or Call Before You Dig 403-245-7252. Do not plant tall-growing trees close to overhead utility lines. Once locates are completed, plan tree locations to avoid underground line interference with any holes dug.
Proper Transport: Protect your tree well during transport by padding the trunk, branches, leaves, and needles with burlap or a mesh tarp. Ball and Burlap trees are heavy and awkward to maneuver without proper equipment and an experienced team. If the proper equipment and team are not on-site to handle the trees, we recommend using FHN’s delivery service to avoid injury to the tree or any persons. FHN offers delivery and placing services for our customers.
Plant as soon as possible after delivery. If planting is not possible right away, store the tree in a cool, shaded area and water as needed to keep the roots and soil moist. Do not let the root ball dry out at any point.
Plant your tree: Dig a hole, 5-10 inches wider than the root ball. The hole should only be as deep as the root ball. When placed in the hole, the root collar (i.e., where the roots join the main stem or trunk) should be equal to or slightly above the depth of the hole. Do not backfill onto the trunk.
Plant the tree so the top of the root ball is flush with the top of the hole and the tree is vertical. Fill the hole in and around the root ball with the soil removed from the hole, or a 50/50 mix of the native soil and a nutrient-dense soil mix. Do not return any grass or sod to the hole.
Pack the soil around the root ball until the hole is two-thirds full to remove air pockets. Cut the tops of the basket off and remove the burlap and strapping. Cover the remaining space and root ball with Wurzel Dip mixture to settle the soil then allow the hole to drain. Finish filling the hole with soil and add 1-2 inches of mulch for better moisture retention. When mulching, leave several inches of distance from the root collar of the tree so the root flare can get adequate oxygen. If irrigation is unavailable, we recommend a water bag for your trees.
Staking: We recommend staking to protect against high wind. Remove or reposition stakes after one year. Ball and Burlap trees need 3-4 stakes per tree, depending on the size of the tree and the environmental conditions.
How to Plant Shrubs and Perennials
Prepare the site: Before completing any digging, plan out the location of each shrub and perennial, keeping in mind the mature growth of the plant. Avoid crowding as this can increase the risk of pests and disease long term and can lead to an early demise of the plant. Plant with proper spacing and putting plants with similar needs together. For example, Moisture-tolerant plants should go with other moisture-tolerant plants.
Proper Transport: Protect your shrubs and perennials well during transport by tarping and strapping as required. Pad the branches, leaves, and needles with burlap or a mesh tarp to avoid unnecessary stress on the plants.
Plant as soon as possible after delivery. If immediate planting is not possible, store the plants in a cool, shaded area and water as needed to keep the roots and soil moist. Avoid storing potted plants on hot concrete as this is more likely to dry out the roots and soil. Opt. to store potted plants on level soil or grass that is semi-shaded, before planting.
Plant your Shrubs and Perennials: Dig a hole, 2-4 inches wider than the container. The hole should only be as deep as the top of the root ball. When placed in the hole, the root collar (i.e., where the roots join the main stem) should be equal to or slightly above the depth of the hole. Do not backfill onto the main stem.
Remove the root ball from the container and roughen the sides and bottom of the root ball to further allow root infiltration. Pay close attention to the root systems when completing this step so as not to cause unnecessary damage to the roots. Plant the plant so the top of the root ball is flush with the top of the hole and the tree is vertical. Fill the hole in and around the root ball with the soil removed from the hole, or a 50/50 mix of the native soil and a nutrient-dense soil mix. Do not return any grass or sod to the hole.
Pack the soil around the root ball until the hole is two-thirds full to remove air pockets. Cover the remaining space and root ball with Wurzel Dip mixture to settle the soil then allow the hole to drain. Finish packing soil into the hole and add any leftover root treatment. Finish filling the hole with soil and add 1-2 inches of mulch for better moisture retention. When mulching, leave room for the root collar of the plant so the root flare can get adequate oxygen.